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What Are The Best Flea Treatments For Dogs?

Flea Sprays

Flea sprays can be a very cost effective flea treatment and preventative for small dogs and cats. However, when compared to the commercial spot-ons and oral flea preventatives available, flea sprays can become quite expensive when applied to larger dogs since the entire dog has to be sprayed. There are many flea sprays out there: indoor, outdoor, for your pet only, all natural, etc. Be sure you know what you’re buying and how to use it. In most instances, flea sprays contain potentially harmful chemicals. Misuse of them could lead to detrimental health problems for you, your family, and your pet. Of course, some flea sprays are safer and more reliable than others. Do your homework and make sure you know which ones are least likely to have a lot of complications.

Flea Collars

Flea collars are basically rubber or plastic collars that are impregnated with a flea repelling compound. They can be a very effective way to repel fleas, but flea collars are usually not very useful if your pet already has fleas. When using a flea collar, it is very important to make sure you are using the right size collar and that the collar is approved for the pet you are putting it on (i.e. dog vs. cat). Read the directions accompanying the flea collar very carefully to make sure you know how long it is effective and what the signs of toxicity are in case your pet has an adverse reaction to the flea collar. If you already have a flea problem, I would consult your veterinarian for a suitable flea elimination plan.

Flea Bombs

Flea bombs, in their simplest explanation, spread a cloud of insecticide throughout your house. Just as it sounds, are layering your house with a chemical that could potentially be hazardous to your pets and family. If you are choosing to use a flea bomb, it would probably be very wise to contact a professional pest exterminator to flea bomb your house for you. Be sure to find out what compounds they are using, how long your family should be out of the house before it’s safe to re-enter, and what the possible side effects of the chemicals are. Flea bombs are definitely not something you should use without doing your research.

Flea Traps

Flea traps sound like they could be a good alternative to flea bombs or other flea killers. However, it seems questionable as to whether or not a flea would chose to actually jump off of your pet and into the trap. If you are going to use a flea trap, keep in mind that most flea traps are designed to prevent a flea infestation or to deal with a very mild flea infestation. And they are going to take a while to fully get rid of your flea problem. If your flea infestation is severe, you make want to skip the flea trap and opt for a more heavy duty treatment. If you are going to use a flea trap, make sure you are choosing the right flea trap for you. Things to consider when purchasing a flea trap for your use are: sound, odor, how many fleas it can kill/hold, where it needs to be placed, warranties, how long one trap lasts, if refills available, if the sticky pad/poison/electrical pad is exposed, and if it is safe for children or pets if they come in contact with the trap.

Natural flea repellant

It is apparent that finding and developing all-natural solutions to society’s everyday problems has becoming increasingly popular over the past few decades. Anyone can see the appeal of using products that are less likely to pose potential health hazards to its users and their loved ones. This is especially true when it comes to applying something to your pet, which is in close contact with your home and your family. Consequently, the idea of using a natural flea repellant can seem extremely enticing.
There unfortunately are no proven natural flea repellants or natural flea killers on the market currently. However, by word of mouth, there are a number of natural flea repellants that are currently being suggested. Some of these are listed below.
Placing eucalyptus leaves in and around your home can be an excellent natural flea repellant due to their unique odor. By mixing garlic and yeast in your pet’s food, you can cause their blood to have an adverse taste so that fleas don’t want to feed on them. (Please keep in mind that raw garlic can be toxic to cats, so this should probably only be used on dogs.) Borax is a natural flea repellant that can be sprinkled on your carpet, in your yard, and along your fence (but be careful because it can apparently kill plants). Food grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is inexpensive and can be sprinkled on your yard as well. Some people suggest using a 50:50 mixture of Borax and DE in your yard, on your carpet, and on your furniture. After a few days, be sure to vacuum up the dust mixture. Skin So Soft from Avon when applied to your pet’s coat can repel fleas and mosquitoes. Placing cedar chips along your fence line can act as a natural flea repellant and can keep fleas from entering your yard. Planting tansy (a perennial, herbaceous flowering plant) in your yard can repel fleas as well. Using nematodes in your yard can be a way to keep the flea populations under control because the small worms will eat the developing flea larvae. Some people suggest setting a trap for the fleas that enter your yard by placing a desk lamp next to a shallow plate of soapy water. The fleas are attracted to the light and jump onto the plate where they end up sinking in the water and drowning.
If natural flea repellants are what you’re looking for, there’s no reason not to give some of the methods mentioned above a shot. However, if they aren’t working for you and your pet, or your pet’s flea infestation is so severe that your pet is obviously suffering, it may be best to consult a veterinarian and treat the existing flea problem now with one of the recommended commercially available products. After the flea situation is under control, it may then be a better time for you to try a natural flea repellant.

Flea infestation

It’s a good idea to check your pet regularly for the possibility of a flea infestation. Evidence of a flea infestation on your pet includes: seeing fleas on your pet, seeing “flea dirt” (black specks) in your pet’s hair coat, or seeing evidence of your pet being itchy. If your pet is itchy, it will be scratching or chewing its skin, or rubbing itself against objects in your house. Severe flea infestations can lead to anemia as well (this is especially life threatening in puppies and kittens). Signs of anemia that you would likely notice on your pet are pale gums and acting weak and lethargic. It’s also a good idea to look for evidence of flea dirt on your pet’s bedding.
Evidence of a flea infestation in your house includes: seeing flea dirt in your carpet, on your couch, in your bed, or anywhere else your pet relaxes. Occasionally, fleas will also bite humans. These bites will be raised, red, and extremely itchy.
To get rid of a flea infestation, all animals in the household must be treated with a flea preventative. Many shampoos, dips, etc. that can be found at pet stores will only kill the fleas on your pet but do not contain any preventative compounds to keep your pets from becoming re-infested. With a mild flea infestation it will take at least 8 weeks to clear the flea infestation from you pet and your home. With a moderate to severe flea infestation, or flea infestations that lead to FAD (flea allergy dermatitis) in your dog, or flea infestations that that are resulting in humans being bitten, it is extremely important that the household is thoroughly treated as well. Treatment will likely need to occur over a much longer period of time and it will require much more extensive measurers. This will likely require the use of a professional pest exterminator and continuous washing of clothing, bedding, and pillows. To prevent further flea infestation, all pets in the household should be regularly treated with a flea preventative even if they don’t go outside. Fleas can be brought into the house by a number of vehicles (such as your clothes and shoes).
After the flea infestation has been resolved, it is still important to continue regular flea prevention on your pets. Fleas can easily be brought into close proximity of your house by wildlife and untreated flea infested neighbors’ pets. Keeping your yard clean with regular mowing and raking can help reduce the chances of a flea re-infestation as well.

Top Flea Products

Killing fleas requires some knowledge of their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Out of those 4 stages, only the adult stage is found on your pet. The other stages are usually hidden in some cool, dark nook or crevice of your house. Not to mention, pupated fleas (fleas in cocoons) are resistant to insecticides and desiccation (drying out). Consequently, most flea infestation treatments target adult fleas.
Adult fleas live on the host (your dog or cat), which makes them easy to find. Therefore, most treatments are directed at the host (usually as a topical liquid or as an ingested tablet). The top flea killers use both an adulticide and a compound to prevent egg or larvae development (ovicides, insect growth regulators, or insect development inhibitors). This allows the top flea killing products to kill the existing adult fleas and prevent the developing fleas from becoming adults. Regardless of how they work, the flea life cycle is stopped there.
The major drugs used in top flea control methods include: fipronil (Frontline), imidocloprid (Advantage), selamectin (Revolution), spinosad (Comfortis), milbemycin oxime/lufenuron (Sentinel), and nitepyram (Capstar). Frontline is a topical flea killer approved for dogs and cats 8 weeks of age and older. It kills adult fleas, ticks, and some mites and lice. A related product, Frontline Plus, contains the additional compound S-Methoprene, an insect growth regulator, that kills flea eggs and flea larvae as well. Advantage is a topical flea killer approved for dogs and cats 7 weeks of age and older. It kills adult fleas, flea larvae, and some lice. Other related products such as K9 Advantix and Advantage Multi are effective against ticks, mosquitoes, biting flies, heart worms, and intestinal parasites. Revolution is a topical flea killer approved for dogs 6 weeks of age or older and cats 8 weeks of age or older. It kills adult fleas, heartworms, ear mites, sarcoptic mange, and some ticks, and prevents flea eggs from hatching. Comfortis is an oral flea killer that comes as a chewable flavored tablet. It is approved for dogs 14 weeks of age or older. It kills adult fleas only. Sentinel is an oral flavored tab that is approved for dogs 4 weeks of age or older. It prevents flea egg and larvae development, and kills heartworms and some intestinal parasites. Capstar is an oral flea killer approved for dogs and cats 4 weeks of age or older. An important note is that it does not have continuing action like the other products mentioned here.
Other drugs that can be used as part of an effective flea control program (likely used in conjunction with some of the top flea killer/control methods above) include: carbaryl, chlorfenvinphos, chlorpyrifos, dichlorvos, fipronil, imidocloprid, phosmet, propoxur, pyrethrins, pyrethroids, and insect growth regulators (such as methoprene and lufenuron). These compounds can be found in stores as flea sprays, flea dips, flea dab-ons, flea collars, etc. Caution needs to be used when applying these products to your pets. It is extremely important to read the labels carefully and to use the products exactly as directed on the species they are intended for.

Killing fleas

While the idea of killing fleas may seem like such an easy feat (since they are so small and short lived), many previously flea infested households can contest to you that it is not. Fleas are extremely hardy pests that have plagued humans and animals alike for centuries. Currently, there are over 2000 flea species worldwide which continue to feed off of the blood of mammals, as well as act as vectors for a number of devastating diseases and parasites. One of the most well known examples of this is the Bubonic plague that swept through Europe in the 14th century. The Bubonic plague is caused by the bacteria Yersinia pestis, which is transmitted from rats to humans by fleas.
In the past few decades, killing fleas has become a multi-billion dollar industry. With the transition of cats and dogs becoming household pets, there has become a heightened awareness regarding the prevalence of fleas. No one wants to see their pet suffer as they incessantly continue to scratch themselves. And no one likes the idea of having fleas in their house. So now the question is: How do you kill fleas?
Before you can start effectively killing fleas, it is important to understand where the fleas are located. In your household, only 5% of the fleas are adults. These adults are found on your pet. The other 95% are present as flea eggs, larva, and pupa. These flea life stages are developing some where in your home. Most mild flea infestations can be controlled and eliminated by killing the adult fleas on your pet. This is usually done by applying the monthly flea preventative recommended by your veterinarian. Over a few months’ treatments, all of the fleas on your pet and in your home will have been killed. With more severe infestations, the killing of fleas will have to be directed at your house as well as your pet. On top of appropriately treating your pet with a monthly flea preventative, this may require hiring a professional pest exterminator that has specific protocols for killing fleas. Or you may have to routinely thoroughly clean your house with steam cleaning and vacuuming of the carpets, furniture, and upholstery, as well and laundering your bedding, pillows, clothes, towels, etc. These efforts will likely have to be frequently done for months even after evidence of fleas can no longer be found. However, no matter what the efforts, killing the fleas in your house will be worth it.

Just because you don’t notice fleas on your pets, it doesn’t mean you don’t have fleas in your house. At the beginning of a flea infestation, you are likely not going to see evidence of fleas on your pets right away. But be wary: A few fleas on your pet can turn into A LOT of fleas in your house in just a few months.
This is because the adult fleas you find on your pet only represent 5% of the total population of fleas in your house. The other 95% are . . . in your carpet, on your couch, and under your bed!
Adult female fleas can start producing eggs within 1-2 days of being on a dog or cat. On average, she can produce 40-50 eggs a day (totaling over 2,000 eggs during her lifetime). These eggs will subsequently fall of your pet’s coat into your home (carpet, furniture, bed, etc.). The resulting flea pupae in your home can lay dormant in highly resistant cocoons for 5-140 days. The developing fleas prefer damp and cool floors (especially those of dirt, sand, or concrete), cracks, and corners. When conditions are favorable for their existence (warmth, humid environments, pets present to feed on, etc.), adult fleas will emerge from their cocoons and infest your house. This is why flea populations in your house may suddenly increase with the transition from Winter to Spring (a warmer environment), or when a pet arrives home from an extended vacation.
While the idea of insects living in your home can be disturbing to some, there are other important reasons to take action to get those fleas out of your house. Fleas in your house can bring with them plague-causing bacteria, tularemia, typhus, and tape worms. All animals in the house, and possibly the house itself, must be treated for at least 3-4 months to erradicate the fleas from the house permanently.
By far, the most efficient and effective way to get rid of a severe infestation of fleas in the house is to use a pest management specialist (otherwise known as a pest exterminator). Another relatively effective method of killing the flea egg, pupa, and larva in your house is steam cleaning. For mild to moderate flea infestations, vacuuming frequently (with burning of the sucked up debris afterwards), using well respected sprays, bombs, and aerosols, and laundering bedding, sheets, and soft toys at least weekly can be very helpful. But remember, these efforts must be made continuously for at least 3-4 months to effectively rid you of fleas in the house.

Cat fleas and Dog fleas

Scientifically, fleas are named based on their preferred host (the animal they are most commonly found on wordwide at the time of their discovery and naming). For example, the “Dog flea” is Ctenocephalides canis (C. Canis); the “Cat flea” is Ctenocephalides felis (C. felis); the “Human flea” is Pulex irritans (P. irritans); and the “Ground squirrel flea” is Diamanus mortanus (D. mortanus). There are over 2,000 flea species world wide, however, many of them do not exist in the United States.
It is a common misconception that dogs and cats are infested by different fleas (and therefore they can not transfer fleas to each other). In the United States, the most prevalent flea species infesting both dogs and cats is by far C. felis, the cat flea. That’s right! In the United States, the fleas most commonly found on cats and dogs are the same flea! This flea can also be found on wild animals such as foxes, opossums, raccoons, and coyotes. (This is important to know when you are trying to prevent exposure of your dog or cat to fleas.) And, although it is less common, the C. felis flea will also bite humans.
As most people know, flea bites on cats and dogs can cause them to itch themselves incessantly. This can lead to further complications such as self-inflicted skin lesions, patches of missing hair, and scaly, thickened skin. A condition that affects dogs but not cats is known as FAD (flea allergy dermatitis). This is an affliction where dogs are actually allergic to the flea bites. In severe cases of FAD, a signal bite can cause dogs to have extreme pruritus (an intense sensation of itchiness that can cause them to gnaw at their skin and attempt to rub themselves on furniture). Fleas that infest cats and dogs can also bring with them other diseases and parasites. For instance, both the dog and cat flea (C. canis and C. felis) can transmit Diplidium caninum (a tapeworm) to your dog or cat. This tapeworm is transmitted to your dog or cat when your dog or cat ingests an infected flea while it is grooming itself of chewing on itself due to its itchiness. These fleas can also carry diseases and parasites that are transmissible to humans as well. Regardless of which flea is on your pet (the dog flea, the cat flea, the human flea, or the sticktight flea), you don’t want fleas on your pet. If you think you have a flea problem, you should contact your veterinarian for advice on the proper flea preventatives.